18Pc Vintage Leather Craft Kit Stitching Sewing Beveler Punch Working Hand Tools

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Vintage Leather Craft Tools Kit Stitching Sewing Beveler Punch Working Hand Tool\n \nFeatures:\n1. High Quality,Strong & Durable Design.\n2. This Tool Set is an excellent way to get started in leather-craft, which has all you need to make professional leather products at the craft level. \n \n\n\nSpecification:\nSet of leathercrafr tool contains:\n1. 5 pcs Leather Edge Grinding Polishing Bar: 180*20mm\n2. 10 pcs Cutting Thinning Blade\n3. 4 pcs Black DIY Dimond Cut: 4mm spacing; 1/2/4/6 teeth\n4. 1 pc Cutting Thinning Knife: 150*19mm, can be with 18.7mm long blade\n5. 1 pc Removable Multipoint Hollow Punch: 130*25mm, with 6 points ( Dia. 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm, 3.0mm, 3.5mm, 4.0mm)\n6. 1 pc Trimming Round Rod: 150*25mm\n7. 1 pc 2mm Leather-craft Sewing Roulette Leather Stitching Wheel: 155*15mm\n8. 1 pc 4mm Leather-craft Sewing Roulette Leather Stitching Wheel:180*20mm\n9. 1 pc DIY Leather Ege Stitching Groover Tool: 140*25mm\n10. 1 pc Wood handle Awl: 120*18mm\n11. 1 pc Cutting Knife: 170mm length,35mm blade width\n12. 1 pc Distance Blank Holder Tool:170mm length,6mm distance width\n13. 1 pc 1.0mm Edge Skiving Tool: 140*27mm\n14. 1 pc French Edge Cutter: 190mm length\n15. 1 pc 95mm V shape Stitching Groover Tool\n16. 1 pc 115mm V shape Stitching Groover Tool\n \nPackage included:\n\n18 x Leathercraft Tool\n\nLeather is an amazing product that has been used by humans since really, the beginning of man. It's in clothes, shoes, bags, belts, holsters and really, pretty much anything you can think of can be made from leather.\nWorking with leather isn't as hard as some people fear it will be, but the craft of it has been around for such a long time, and people have been improvising tools to work with leather, literally as long as people have been using leather to make things. \nGoing into a retail leather supply store, you'll very likely wind up with sticker shock when you see how much some of the tools and leather itself costs. My goal with this Instructable is to help you decide what tools you really must have, what you can improvise on your own, and some alternatives to a leather specific retail store for some of your items. Some tools will only be available from a retail leather supply store, like Tandy Leather Factory. My goal is to help you understand enough basic terminology and the function of some tools, so that you'll be able to decide for yourself in advance of you of trying to make your first few items and realizing that you are missing something really essential, or that there is really a better way of doing a specific task and will make your life much easier.\nThere are a ton of You Tube videos and websites out there that you can visit to learn more about this hobby, but there are a few I'd recommend you spend the time watching. Below are the top 3 most helpful that I have come across.\n\nThe one thing absolutely necessary to leather working is obviously leather. There are many different kinds of leather available to purchase, from veg-tan (more detail on what exactly this is in a sec...) to exotics like stingrays. From buffalo to kangaroo, you can buy it and make things out of it. \nBy far, the most common type of leather is called veg-tan. The "tan" part of the word "veg-tan" refers to tanning, which is the process by which the skin of an animal (after removal from the body) is treated so that it will not decompose and biodegrade (rot away and stink to high heaven!) therefore becoming a durable material that can be used to make things from. In the "olden days" I believe they used brains, urine and salt to complete that process, but now use chemicals that are vegetable based, which is where the "veg" in "veg-tan" comes from. The veg-tan that is available for purchase from Tandy Leather Factory and other suppliers is generally from cows. There are 2 sides (like a coin) a skin or finished side, and the flesh (suede) side where it was previously attached to the animal.\nIt is in an unfinished state, meaning undyed, and generally quite stiff, which is why you'll find it either laid out flat or rolled when you go looking for it in a retail setting. You cannot fold veg-tan for storage because with this unfinished state, it would permanently crease. \nYou can do many things with veg-tan, like dye it to a color of your preference, stamp it (using a metal implement struck with a mallet to impress a permanent image on the leather) sew it, brand it (burn an image or design into it) and tool it. Tooling is a multi-step process of cutting and stamping custom designs into veg-tan that uses both positive and negative space to create the image. It is a VERY hard thing to master, because one misstep with a stamp and a mallet, and you can permanently flaw your design. However, tooling in the way of the masters of this craft, is not necessary to creating a leather item. Many items use no tooling or stamping at all. But if they do, they started as veg-tanned leather.\nThere will be many different qualities among veg-tanned leather. The lowest (and therefore least expensive) will be thin and will also have marks on the finished side, where the animal may have been branded or have scars where the animal may have sustained an injury at some point in it's life. There may also be scars from bug bites that will be visible, or have holes in it where it was cut away from the animal. The highest quality hides (and mot expensive) will be unmarked to provide the most usable surface with the least amount of flaws.\nVeg-tan leather is generally also sold by weight, which can be confusing because "weight" does not mean how much physical weight it has (like you would measure with a scale) but rather the thickness of the leather. The lower the number, the thinner the leather. Typically, you'll find them grouped as 2-3oz, 4-5oz, 6-7oz, 8-9oz, and so one, up to about a maximum of 12-14oz, which is a very thick leather used for saddles or ultra rugged items. Naturally, the thicker the leather weight, the heavier the actual hide will be. I know that particular definition of what "weight" meant confused me in the beginning. \nFinished leathers are generally tanned in such a way as to make them more supple and will most often include dyeing to a specific color as a part of that process. Think of garments, wallets, purses, upholstery and similar. There are other finished leathers that are quite stiff, like buffalo, but I've not used them myself, so I won't be referring to that much since it is outside of my personal knowledge base. Many of these finished leathers are referred to as "chrome" tanned, because chromium is used in the finishing process. Many times, "chrome tanned" or "chromed" leather is used to refer to all finished leathers.\nFinished leathers can be very heavy, but most that are designed for upholstery or garments are not very thick (usually between 2 to 4oz) and are sold by sides (half of a cow) rather than by weight, and the smaller units you can buy for a veg-tan project, like bellies aren't cut that way on finished sides because you need the entire side to get large enough pieces to upholster or make a garment or bag. \nYou cannot stamp, dye or create impressions very well, if at all, on a finished piece of leather, because much like adding a shellac or varnish to a stained wood, finished leather also has that "protective" element on the skin side, which is what makes it "finished." \nFor anyone interested in more details on the tanning process, I refer you to Wikipedia: